Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Savoring the harvest: Cranberry chutney with homegrown shallots

by June

Since we eat from scratch, I love simple preparations that accentuate the flavor of the ingredients (and go together fast enough to satisfy our hungry children). But on special occasions, the work of a dish can intensify my pleasure in preparing it. This is especially true at Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving revolves around food and tradition and family and thankfulness, and through years of holidays, these strands have become entwined for me. When I cook for my family, memories tiptoe in from other days, other years.

This morning, I spent time alone in the kitchen making our favorite cranberry chutney. I'm rarely alone when I cook. Blossom and Fern share the family passion for cooking, and we are often all there together, talking and laughing. But today, the girls had chickens to tend. Birch was out and about. So I found myself cooking and going wherever my mind wandered. Fortunately, making the chutney requires blanching and peeling a half-pound of shallots. So my mind had a lot of time to wander.

It wandered from the May day I planted the shallots in my garden to the first Thanksgiving I spent in New York City, a day when a friend and I roasted our first turkey and watched the Macy's parade across from the Museum of Natural History. The sky was so blue it seemed like a Missouri sky to me; I ached for the only family I'd ever known. But that was also the Thanksgiving I realized the joy and importance of the family one finds in the world.

As I trimmed shallots for tomorrow's feast, I thought of waking on Thanksgiving day to hear my mother in the kitchen, to smell the celery and sage, to feel the deepest sense of well-being I have ever known in my life...because it happened every year and I imagined it always would. I thought of the long walks my father and I took every Thanksgiving along the railroad tracks: I would be eager to get home to the fireside, and he would distract me with the same joke he seemed to fish out of his back pocket every year, "You may think this is an icicle on my nose, but it'ssss not."

As I blanched and peeled the shallots this morning, I thought of how lucky we are that my grandfather will be at my mother's Thanksgiving table this year. He'll tell 92-years of great stories. Even though I won't be there to hear them, I love knowing that he'll be telling them. I thought too of how my great-aunt Ella was always at our Thanksgiving table when I was growing up and how her homemade noodles are still on our every holiday table and how the great-great-nieces she never knew nevertheless know her...and know how to make her noodles and will be making them for Thanksgivings beyond the stretch of even my imagination.

I was filled with thankfulness as I cooked this morning...for the children chasing chickens outside the kitchen window, for the husband who will bake our bread, for the people who love us and show us they do. I felt such deep gratitude for the kindness shown to us this year.

For me, cooking is an act of deep thoughtfulness and thankfulness. It's the perfect start for our celebration. It is itself an act of thanksgiving.


"Best" Cranberry, Shallot and Dried-Cherry Chutney

1/2 pound shallots (about 16)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup white-wine vinegar (tarragon is very good)
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup dried, unsweetened sour cherries
2 cups fresh or unthawed frozen cranberries, picked over
1/2 cup water

• In a saucepan of boiling water, blanch shallots for one minute. Drain. Peel shallots and separate into cloves.
• In a heavy saucepan, cook shallots in butter over moderate heat, stirring until coated. Add sugar and 1 tablespoon vinegar and cook until the sugar mixture turns a golden caramel. (The texture will be very grainy, dry, and weird-seeming; don't be discouraged.)
• Add remaining vinegar, wine, and salt and boil one minute. (Don't panic if the sugar caramel hardens; it will melt.)
• Add cherries and simmer, covered, 45 minutes, or until shallots are tender.
• Add cranberries and water and boil gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, ten minutes, or until cranberries burst. Transfer to bowl and cool. Serve at room temperature.
• Makes about three cups and can be cooked five days ahead and chilled, covered.

In my kitchen memory book, I did not note where I found this recipe. The first time I made it, in 1996, I spent part of the same day re-reading Jane Austen's Persuasion and listening to Ella Fitzgerald by the fire. I've been making it for Thanksgivings ever since.

16 comments:

Jane Marie said...

I am so thankful for you. Happy Day to you & family.

a tasteful garden said...

very, very lovely post. happy thanksgiving!

Colleen - the AmAzINg Mrs. B said...

You need to write a book...a cookbook with your stories and your memories. Yes, you do. beautiful post and I think I may have to make this one - funny thing, hubby and I were just talking about "Chutney" and debating about what it was....and I was right (did you doubt it?)
Anyway, seriously, a book with your recipes..your life in Maine..you stories about your beautiful girls..I want my copy autographed, please :-)

Happy Thanksgiving my friend!

Charmingdesigns said...

I just found you through Utah Grammie. I'm going to have a look around your blog.

Dawn Suzette said...

Simply Beautiful June... It is amazing the wonderful memories that come forth when preparing good food for those we love!

"...re-reading Jane Austen's Persuasion and listening to Ella Fitzgerald by the fire." Love this part too.

Hullabaloo Homestead said...

I loved reading your stories of Thanksgiving. I still have two under four, but it will be a nice moment when I am alone in the kitchen...but for now I will just be thankful for them being little and so darn cute. And one up tonight way too late, but how do you tell that to an 8 month old?!

:)Lisa

tom tall clover farm said...

And am I thankful for the generosity of your words and the sharing of these beautiful moments in your family's life. And not to mention a great recipe thrown in for good measure--one that while I may not make today, will likely become my own tradition.

Thanks June, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. And I guess it would be out of the question to have some of that mile-high apple pie FEDEX'd to the west coast? ;-)

Emily said...

My dad makes the same "it's not / it's snot" joke, but usually with different lead ups based on the situation. I'll have to tell him of your dad's lead in. He'll get a kick out of it.

Linda said...

A lovely cranberry recipe - thank you! Fresh cranberries are a relatively recent import here, so they don't feature in my childhood Christmas memories. But there's always room for something new.

Anonymous said...

I love the idea of a kitchen memory book! Not only will I try this recipe, but I think I'll try to keep better track of the time I spend in my favourite room of the house.

艾丰 said...

jianbin0620
ray-ban sunglasses
ralph lauren
kate spade uk
oakley sunglasses
swarovski crystal
tiffany jewellery
ferragamo outlet
tory burch outlet online
ralph lauren polo
ferragamo shoes sale
michael kors uk
ralph lauren outlet
babyliss flat iron
louis vuitton pas cher
oakley sunglasses wholesale
pandora jewelry
burberry sunglasses
michael kors outlet
burberry outlet online
nfl jerseys wholesale
beats headphones
michael kors uk
tiffany and co
ralph lauren shirts
polo outlet
true religion jeans
beats headphones
louis vuitton outlet
michael kors outlet
jordan shoes
fitflops clearance
polo ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton outlet online
lacoste polo shirts

xjd7410@gmail.com said...

coach outlet
toms shoes sale
louis vuitton
michael kors outlet
nike air max pas cher
uggs outlet
coach factory outlet online
lebron james shoes 13
michael kors handbags
michael kors handbags
rolex watches
coach factory outlet
louis vuitton handbags
seattle seahawks jerseys
jordan retro 11
ugg slippers
true religion outlet
michael kors outlet online sale
louis vuitton outlet
ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton bags
lebron 11
ray ban sunglasses discount
michael kors outlet clearance
toms outlet
polo ralph lauren
polp ralph lauren
cheap nfl jerseys
canada goose outlet
chenyingying2016815

eric yao said...

Coach Outlet http://www.coachstoreoutlet.us.org

Christian Louboutin Shoes http://www.christianlouboutinshoe.eu.com

Valentino Shoes http://www.valentinoshoes.eu.com

Michael Kors Outlet http://www.michaelkorsoutlet.us.org

Coach Factory Outlet http://www.coachfactoryoutlet.us.org

Coach Outlet Online http://www.coachoutletonlinestore.us.org

Coach Purses http://www.coachpurse.us.com

Kate Spade Outlet http://www.katespadefactoryoutlet.us.com

Toms Shoes http://www.toms-shoes.name

Hermes Belts http://www.hermesbelts.us.org

Louis Vuitton http://www.louisvuitton-outletstores.us.com

Fendi Handbags http://www.fendibelt.us.com

Giuseppe Shoes http://www.giuseppezanotti.eu.com

Michael Kors Outlet http://www.michael-kors-outlet.us.com

Stephen Curry Shoes http://www.stephencurryshoes.us.com

Salomon Shoes http://www.salomonshoes.eu.com

North Face Outlet http://www.northfacesoutlet.in.net

Coach Outlet http://www.outletcoach.in.net

North Face Outlet http://www.northfacesoutlet.us.com

Burberry Outlet http://www.burberryoutletstore.us.org

North Face Outlet http://www.north-faceoutlets.in.net

North Face Jackets http://www.outletnorthface.in.net

Skechers Shoes http://www.skechersshoes.us.com

Toms Outlethttp://www.tomsoutletstore.us.org

North Face Outlet http://www.northfacestoreoutlet.us.org

Nike Air Max http://www.nikeoutlet.us.org

Nike Hoodies http://www.nikehoodies.us.com

Marc Jacobs Handbags http://www.marcjacobshandbags.name

Marc Jacobs Outlet http://www.marcjacobsoutletstore.us.com

Jimmy Choo Shoes http://www.jimmy-chooshoes.us.com

Jimmy Choos http://www.jimmychoos.in.net

Burberry Belt http://www.burberrybelt.us.com

Louis Vuitton Belt http://www.louisvuitton-belt.com

Salvatore Ferragamo http://www.ferragamo-belt.us.com

Marc Jacobs Handbags http://marcjacobshandbagsoutlet.blog.com

Lululemon Outlet http://www.lululemonsoutlet.us.com

True Religion Outlet http://www.truereligion-outlets.in.net

Tommy Hilfiger http://www.tommyhilfigeroutlet.us.com

Michael Kors Outlet http://www.outletmichaelkors.eu.com

Coach Outlet http://www.outletcoach.eu.com

Red Bottoms http://www.redbottom.in.net

Kevin Durant Shoes http://www.kevindurantshoes.us.org

New Balance Outlet http://www.newbalanceoutlet.in.net

Adidas Outlet http://www.adidasoutlet.in.net

Coach Outlet Online http://www.coachoutlet-online.eu.com

Stephen Curry Jersey http://www.stephencurryjersey.us.com

Vans Outlet http://www.vansoutlet.us.com

Ralph Lauren Outlet http://www.ralphlauren-outletstore.in.net

True Religion Outlet http://www.true-religionoutlets.in.net

ED Hardy Outlet http://www.edhardyoutlet.in.net

North Face Outlet http://www.northfaceoutlet.eu.com

UGG Outlet http://www.uggoutlet.us.org

UGG Outlet http://www.outletugg.in.net

North Face Outlet http://www.northface--outlet.us.com

Ugg Boots Sale http://www.uggbootssale.in.net

UGGS For Women http://www.uggsforwomen.us.com

Skechers Go Walk http://www.skechersgowalk.us.com

Adidas Yeezy Boost http://www.adidasyeezyboost.in.net

Adidas Yeezy http://www.adidasyeezy.us.com

Adidas NMD http://www.adidas-nmd.us.org

Coach Outlet http://www.coachoutletinc.us.com

Digital Marketing Agency said...

Quicken Support Phone Number
Quicken Support Phone Number
Quicken Support Number
Quicken Technical Support Phone Number
Quicken Technical Support Number
Quicken Tech Support Phone Number
Quicken Tech Support Number
Customer Service Phone Number
Customer Service Number

Unknown said...

QuickBooks Technician
Quickbooks Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Number
Quickbooks Support Number
Quickbooks Technical Support Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Technical Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Customer Service Number
Quickbooks Customer Service Phone Number
Quickbooks Customer Support Number
Quickbooks Customer Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Help Desk Phone Number
Quickbooks Help Desk Number

raybanoutlet001 said...

nike blazer pas cher
nike store
ugg outlet
longchamp outlet
michael kors outlet
ugg boots
cheap nike shoes
ed hardy uk
oakley sunglasses wholesale
coach handbags