Thursday, September 23, 2010

Our fast food starts slowly, very slowly

by June

One boon of harvest season is fast food. No drive-throughs here, but we have been known to feed ourselves by walking through the garden—plucking a tomato or two, scissoring off some tat soi leaves, and pinching a handful of raspberries for dessert. Even if we slow it down a little, passing it through the kitchen on its way to the table, preparation is swift and simple.



This year, we've had the luxury of tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes. Two of our simplest favorites are salads inspired by Indian spices. Both are so pungent and flavorful that I wonder how I will survive the winter without them.

The first—fresh tomato salad—is nothing but sliced tomatoes (mine are Persimmon heirlooms) dribbled with lemon juice and then layered with basil leaves. Then, I heat some mild-tasting oil (often canola or peanut), toss in mustard seeds and cumin seeds and a lovely, stinky pinch of asafetida, which may qualify as my favorite seasoning. I pour the hot mustard over the tomatoes (but not the basil). Then I dash on sea salt, a grind of black pepper, and a sprinkle of cayenne.



Our absolute favorite dish this summer has been a tomato-and-yogurt salad. It's another variation on the Indian-spice theme. It depends on great Greek-style yogurt, a good cup-size dollop (more or less depending on whether you want the yogurt to melt into a thinner sauce or hold its peaks). Blend sea salt to taste into the yogurt. Fold in tomatoes chunked to your liking or Sungolds cut in half. Mince up a shallot. Heat a couple tablespoons of mild-tasting oil and saute the shallot until it is browning along the edges. Toss in cumin seed, mustard seeds, and a two-finger pinch of asafetida. Pour the hot, spicy oil over the cool, yogurty tomatoes. You can add a sift of cayenne and some rings of scallion—if you can manage any extra flourishes once you catch a whiff of those ingredients melding into creamy, tangy, zesty perfection.



It's a good thing fine dining is so easy just now because the harvest is running us ragged. The countertops seem to pulse with tomatoes, and we move through supper knowing that it's not just the dirty dishes waiting in that kitchen, it's also the next batch of garden bounty waiting to be transformed into winter's comfort—fast food that tastes like summer.



We always seem to be out of jars or lids or both, out of daylight hours (and even midnight hours), out of pep, but never out of tomatoes. Far be it from me to complain, especially after last year's blight left us with a scanty pantry. This year, we've had nothing but sunshine and warmth, and all of it has gone on for longer than usual; our first frost is late this year. We are hard pressed to keep putting away winter's fast food.

We try to blend the preserving with other work we're doing in the kitchen—or outside in the pizza oven. We even used the outdoor oven to roast our tomatoes for Tall Clover Farm's homemade catsup. (Can you blame us after what happened to dear Tom last year?) Tom's catsup recipe is the best we've ever made, and it makes a lot of catsup. I can already tell it won't last the winter around here.



This is our first summer growing San Marzano tomatoes. I can assure you they are here to stay. And so is the way we've been storing them for fast meals when we're tuckered out from a cross-country ski jaunt. I've always slow-roasted our Sungolds, but I saw where Sylvie at Laughing Duck Farm adds sugar to her slow-roasted paste tomatoes. I used thyme, not rosemary. Heaven on a crusty loaf, I tell you. Pure heaven.


Don't forget to scrape the tomato caramel off the pans and into your jars—or straight into your mouth as a reward for your work.



My two girls have been at my side for all the work of the harvest. They rarely waver in their enthusiasm. But one late night, when each of us would rather have been upstairs in bed reading, Blossom sighed at the sight of more tomatoes. I did too. Thankfully, Blossom quickly rallied and revived us all with one observation: "Just think how happy we will be to see them again this winter."

How true, Blossom. How very true. It may be slow-going now. But in January, fast food will be just the twist of a lid away.

40 comments:

Conny said...

I don't think any tomato caramel would make into a jar around here ~ straight to my mouth it would go.

June, so glad you posted more tomatoey goodness. I'm literally green with envy of your tomato harvest: green tomatoes are finally ripening here in mid-September. We've not had too many red ones, 1 or 2 at a time. Foggy nights have brought powdery mildew to our tomato leaves, and so they will be pulled out this weekend. If I get my hands on some Sungolds somewhere this weekend, I'm sure to make some of your yummy Sungold jam.

June said...

Conny: Little confession here...I don't let much of that tomato caramel slip into the jar either. It is the yummiest thing BY FAR I have ever tasted. The girls agree.

I'm so sorry about your plants. My tomato plants are still loaded with green tomatoes--but they are hardly ripening now as the nights get cooler. Our frost is overdue. It hurts to see the green ones not get their chance. I do hope you can find Sungolds somewhere. Mine are usually still springing off the plant in September. But not this year. They came on strong early and just wimped out. I've never seen them act that way. But the weather is weird everywhere. The tomatoes, like the people who plant them, are merely looking for ways to cope.

Catherine said...

June, we made your sungold jam today and Wow! It's amazing! I cannot wait to try those recipes too! We have tons of tomatoes in our garden too!

June said...

Catherine: That's so exciting! I'm so happy you like the jam. Our Sungolds have tapered off dramatically, but the big heirloom plants are still loaded with green tomatoes. If the frost holds off a little longer...

Joanna said...

Visiting via Simple Lives Thurs.
Tomato caramel sounds incredible! I wish our garden had given us more tomatoes this year! At least there's the farmer's market.

June said...

Joanna: Thanks for stopping by. I am always grateful for the farmers' market. When I just can't wrest enough from my own garden, I know I can still enjoy great local food.

Beegirl said...

Nothing better that tucking away treats in the pantry to enjoy when the snow is flying. So glad you've had a bountiful harvest this year! Love to you in Maine!!

Knittymama said...

So glad you got a nice tomato harvest this summer! Ours stopped a bit short this year sadly, but I still had time to put up a bunch for the year.

Tom @ Tall Clover said...

Thanks for the shoutout June. I love it when others can learn from my mistakes. ;-)

As always, a delicious post!

meemsnyc said...

Yum, so many delicious tomato goodies!

City Sister said...

That's giving me some new ideas to do with my tomatoes other than canning them.

Anonymous said...

Have you ever thought about publishing an ebook or guest authoring on other websites?
I have a blog centered on the same topics you discuss and would
love to have you share some stories/information. I know my subscribers would value your work.
If you're even remotely interested, feel free to send me an e-mail.


My web site ... cara diet cepat

Junda Xu said...

20150630 junda
burberry outlet
tory burch outlet online
ray-ban sunglasse
pandora jewelry sale
coach outlet online
louis vuitton
hollister kids
true religion sale
oakley sunglasses sale
michael kors bags
oakley sunglasses
ray ban sunglasses
michael kors handbags
tory burch handbags
cheap ray ban sunglasses
toms outlet store
oakley outlet
cheap soccer jerseys
louboutin
toms shoes for women
ray bans
coach factory outlet
cheap oakley sunglasses
kate spade handbags
coach outlet
michael kors outlet
prada outlet
toms shoes sale
kate spade bags
true religion jeans outlet
nike blazer pas cher
michael kors
replica watches rolex
michael kors handbags
football jerseys
cheap jordans free shipping
cheap snapbacks hats
cheap oakley sunglasses
gucci belt
ralph lauren polo shirts

Lin Shijun said...

shijun 7.16
hollister clothing store
christian louboutin outlet
prada uk outlet
true religion
louis vuitton outlet
jordan shoes
pandora bracelets
jordan 13s
ray ban sungalsses
louis vuitton handbags uk
coach outlet
true religion outlet
jeremy scott adidas
fake watches
chi hair strighteners
gucci bags
burberry outlet
coach outlet
nike air max
hollister outlet
true religion outlet
coach outlet store online
cheap oakley sunglasses
abercrombie store
coach outlet store online
jordan shoes
louis vuitton
abercrombie store new york
lululemon outlet
abercrombie
air max shoes
longchamp outlet
jordan 11 columbia
abercrombie fitch
pandora bracelets
abercrombie & fitch
burberry
ray ban sunglasses
hollister kids
cheap toms

张栋 said...

michael kors uk
philadelphia eagles jerseys
true religion outlet, http://www.truereligionjean.in.net
lacoste outlet
ralph lauren polo shirts
coach outlet store, http://www.coachoutletstoreonline.in.net/
air jordan shoes
timberland shoes
pittsburgh steelers jersey
longchamp handbags, http://www.longchamphandbag.us.com/
the north face outlet store
new balance 574
kobe bryants shoes
designer handbags,handbags outlet,cheap handbags,purses and handbags,wholesale handbags,designer bags,bags outlet,handbags wholesale,cheap purses,discount handbags,handbags sale,wholesale purses,handbags and purses,designer purses
ugg boots clearance,ugg australia,uggs on sale,ugg slippers,uggs boots,uggs outlet,ugg boots,ugg,uggs
indianapolis colts jerseys
denver broncos jerseys
ugg uk
cleveland cavaliers jersey
michael kors outlet online
michael kors outlet
rolex watches
true religion outlet, http://www.truereligionoutletstore.us.com
true religion jeans, http://www.truereligionjeansoutlets.us.com/
ray ban sunglasses, http://www.rayban-sunglassess.us.com/
ray ban uk, http://www.raybansunglass.co.uk
christian louboutin, http://www.scarpelouboutin.it/
fivefingers shoes
air jordan 4
michael kors uk outlet

John said...

ralph lauren polos shirts
pandora jewelry
pandora charms
gucci shoes
ralph lauren
air jordans
coach outlet canada
air max
adidas superstar
air max 90
nike air max 90
sac longchamp pliage
cheap oakleys
longchamp pas cher
oakley sunglasses
hermes belt
lebron james shoes
supra shoes
toms wedges
abercrombie and fitch
nike trainers
air max 95
nike roshe runs
ugg slippers
kate spade
polo ralph lauren
nike air max
instyler curling iron
nike running shoes
christian louboutin shoes
oakley sunglasses wholesale
ralph lauren pas cher
uggs boots on sale
coach outlet
2015921yuanyuan

Meiqing Xu said...

15.10.05daigege
fitflops sale clearance
jordan shoes
tory burch sale
ugg outlet
cheap ugg boots
cheap uggs
uggs sale
ugg boots sale
canada goose
celine bags
hermes outlet
football jerseys cheap
louis vuitton
louis vuitton outlet online
michael kors outlet online
michael kors outlet
ray-ban wayfarer
michael kors bags
timberland outlet
michael kors outlet
michael kors outlet
michael kors outlet online
coach outlet
michael kors outlet
michael kors uk
mihchael kors bag
ralph lauren uk
nike air max 90
coach outlet online
michael kors outlet online
abercrombie store
hollister clothing
toms outlet
burberry outlet
uggs outlet
22

林磊 said...

2015-10-5 leilei
Gucci Outlet Store Locations
Coach Outlet Discount Clearance Coach Handbags
uggs sale
Ralph Lauren Polo Shirts Clearance
toms outlet
Louis vuitton Official Website Outlet Online
Coach Luggage Bags Outlet Sale Online
Designer Louis Vuitton Handbags Outlet
New Michael Kors Handbags Outlet Online
michael kors bags
canada goose
Jordan Concords Low And High
Authentic Louis Vuitton Handbags Outlet Sale
Louis Vuitton Canada Official Site
Hollister Tees for Men

Qing Cai said...

canada goose jackets, http://www.parajumpers.in.net/
wellensteyn jackets, http://www.barbour.us.com/
links of london, http://www.linksoflondons.co.uk/
michael kors bags, http://www.michaelkorsbags.uk/
nike outlet store, http://www.nikeoutletstore.us/
cheap ugg boots, http://www.cheapuggboots.net.co/
coach outlet store, http://www.coach-outlet-store.us.com/
wedding dresses, http://www.weddingdressesoutlet.co.uk/
designer handbags, http://www.designerhandbags.us.com/
coach outlet, http://www.coachoutletstores.com.co/
ugg outlet, http://www.uggoutletstore.eu.com/
ray ban sunglasses, http://www.raybansunglass.co.uk/
kobe shoes, http://www.kobeshoes.us/
cyber monday 2015, http://www.blackfriday2015.in.net/
cheap jordans, http://www.cheapjordans.us.org/
tiffany and co jewelry, http://www.tiffanyandco.in.net/
hollister uk, http://www.hollistershirts.co.uk/
the north face uk, http://www.thenorthfaces.org.uk/
stuart weitzman boots, http://www.stuartweitzmanoutlet.us/
ray ban, http://www.occhiali-rayban.it/
juicy couture outlet, http://www.juicycoutureoutlet.net/
asics, http://www.asicsisrael.com/
vans shoes, http://www.vans-shoes.cc/
abercrombie and fitch, http://www.abercrombie-fitch.us.com/
replica watches, http://www.replicawatchesforsale.us.com/
cai20151014

柯云 said...

2015-12-07keyun
timberlands
cheap oakley sunglasses
mulberry uk
coach outlet online
coach factory outlet
jordan 11s
louis vuitton purses
mont blanc mountain
ugg boots
chanel handbags
louis vuitton bags
true religion jeans outlet
michael kors outlet
prada
coach outlet
michael kors outlet online
uggs for sale
air force 1 trainers
uggs on sale
uggs for chea
ugg sale
nike trainers sale
cheap toms
the north face jackets
cheap air jordans
uggs on sale
michaek kors outlet
louis vuitton handbags
michael kors outlet
canada goose outlet
michael kors outlet
nike air huarache
ray-ban sunglasses
cheap ugg boots
instyler
ralph lauren sale
louis vuitton outlet stores
abercrombie and fitch
toms outlet
north face jackets

oakleyses said...

prada outlet, cheap oakley sunglasses, michael kors outlet online, jordan shoes, ray ban sunglasses, nike air max, nike air max, ray ban sunglasses, tiffany and co, polo ralph lauren outlet online, oakley sunglasses wholesale, michael kors outlet online, kate spade outlet, louis vuitton outlet, oakley sunglasses, louis vuitton, oakley sunglasses, michael kors outlet, louis vuitton, longchamp outlet, longchamp outlet, polo outlet, nike free, chanel handbags, burberry handbags, uggs outlet, longchamp outlet, christian louboutin outlet, louis vuitton outlet, michael kors outlet online, tiffany jewelry, nike outlet, ugg boots, prada handbags, tory burch outlet, louis vuitton outlet, michael kors outlet online, oakley sunglasses, replica watches, christian louboutin, replica watches, uggs on sale, christian louboutin shoes, michael kors outlet, burberry outlet, gucci handbags, uggs outlet

oakleyses said...

kate spade, louboutin pas cher, north face, timberland pas cher, nike air max, michael kors, nike air force, oakley pas cher, michael kors, michael kors pas cher, air max, vans pas cher, sac longchamp pas cher, ray ban uk, coach outlet, north face uk, coach outlet store online, guess pas cher, coach purses, ray ban pas cher, nike air max uk, polo lacoste, nike free uk, abercrombie and fitch uk, hollister pas cher, true religion outlet, burberry pas cher, nike roshe run uk, nike free run, jordan pas cher, ralph lauren uk, new balance, mulberry uk, true religion outlet, converse pas cher, nike air max uk, replica handbags, hollister uk, michael kors outlet, true religion jeans, polo ralph lauren, nike blazer pas cher, nike roshe, longchamp pas cher, lululemon canada, hogan outlet, nike tn, sac hermes, sac vanessa bruno, true religion outlet

oakleyses said...

ipad cases, nike huaraches, baseball bats, p90x workout, lululemon, valentino shoes, jimmy choo outlet, asics running shoes, abercrombie and fitch, iphone cases, herve leger, soccer shoes, bottega veneta, nike trainers uk, ralph lauren, mcm handbags, iphone 6 cases, louboutin, iphone 6 plus cases, new balance shoes, ghd hair, vans outlet, longchamp uk, beats by dre, mont blanc pens, nike roshe run, north face outlet, mac cosmetics, hollister clothing, chi flat iron, north face outlet, nfl jerseys, instyler, giuseppe zanotti outlet, reebok outlet, s6 case, nike air max, hermes belt, timberland boots, wedding dresses, iphone 5s cases, celine handbags, hollister, oakley, soccer jerseys, insanity workout, babyliss, iphone 6s plus cases, ferragamo shoes, iphone 6s cases

oakleyses said...

coach outlet, barbour, canada goose jackets, juicy couture outlet, ugg,uggs,uggs canada, louis vuitton, swarovski, marc jacobs, pandora charms, moncler, canada goose uk, juicy couture outlet, links of london, karen millen uk, moncler uk, louis vuitton, hollister, gucci, pandora jewelry, vans, replica watches, doudoune moncler, canada goose, pandora uk, ugg,ugg australia,ugg italia, ray ban, moncler, ugg, lancel, thomas sabo, supra shoes, moncler outlet, montre pas cher, louis vuitton, moncler, converse outlet, toms shoes, canada goose outlet, moncler, louis vuitton, canada goose, louis vuitton, pandora jewelry, converse, ugg uk, canada goose outlet, nike air max, ugg pas cher, hollister, moncler outlet, canada goose, wedding dresses

Gege Dai said...

03018wangjuan
coach handbags
oakley sunglasses sale
michael kors factory outlet
true religion outlet uk
oakley sunglasses
ferragamo shoes
true religion outlet
lululemon uk
fitflops clearance
ralph lauren uk
ralph lauren outlet
mulberry outlet,mulberry handbags outlet
beats headphones
polo ralph lauren
true religion jeans
rolex watches for sale
polo ralph lauren
true religion outlet
ray-ban sunglasses
bottega veneta outlet
kate spade uk outlet
ralph lauren outlet
rolex watches
louis vuitton handbags
lululemon outlet
coach outlet store
ralph lauren polo
beats by dre
cheap oakley sunglasses
kate spade uk

艾丰 said...

jianbin0620
ray-ban sunglasses
ralph lauren
kate spade uk
oakley sunglasses
swarovski crystal
tiffany jewellery
ferragamo outlet
tory burch outlet online
ralph lauren polo
ferragamo shoes sale
michael kors uk
ralph lauren outlet
babyliss flat iron
louis vuitton pas cher
oakley sunglasses wholesale
pandora jewelry
burberry sunglasses
michael kors outlet
burberry outlet online
nfl jerseys wholesale
beats headphones
michael kors uk
tiffany and co
ralph lauren shirts
polo outlet
true religion jeans
beats headphones
louis vuitton outlet
michael kors outlet
jordan shoes
fitflops clearance
polo ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton outlet online
lacoste polo shirts

艾丰 said...

jianbin0620
ray-ban sunglasses
ralph lauren
kate spade uk
oakley sunglasses
swarovski crystal
tiffany jewellery
ferragamo outlet
tory burch outlet online
ralph lauren polo
ferragamo shoes sale
michael kors uk
ralph lauren outlet
babyliss flat iron
louis vuitton pas cher
oakley sunglasses wholesale
pandora jewelry
burberry sunglasses
michael kors outlet
burberry outlet online
nfl jerseys wholesale
beats headphones
michael kors uk
tiffany and co
ralph lauren shirts
polo outlet
true religion jeans
beats headphones
louis vuitton outlet
michael kors outlet
jordan shoes
fitflops clearance
polo ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton outlet online
lacoste polo shirts

Chenzhen 20160303chenzhen said...

supra store
true religion jeans outlet
louis vuitton pas cher
michael kors canada
ray bans
cheap basketball shoes
christian louboutin outlet
ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton purse
michael kors outlet online
skechers outlet
nike air force
ray ban sunglasses
cheap jordan shoes
dior sunglasses 2016
ray ban outlet store
michael kors bags
bottega veneta shoes
kobe 11
michael kors outlet store
nike flyknit racer
ed hardy uk
tiffany jewelry outlet
fitflops
pandora charms
nmd adidas
adidas gazelle
tory burch outlet online
oakley sunglasses cheap
adidas pure boost black
coach outlet store
burberry outlet
hollister kids
michael kors uk
toms outlet
nike air max 90
coach factory outlet online
timberland uk
chenzhen2016627

xjd7410@gmail.com said...

coach outlet
toms shoes sale
louis vuitton
michael kors outlet
nike air max pas cher
uggs outlet
coach factory outlet online
lebron james shoes 13
michael kors handbags
michael kors handbags
rolex watches
coach factory outlet
louis vuitton handbags
seattle seahawks jerseys
jordan retro 11
ugg slippers
true religion outlet
michael kors outlet online sale
louis vuitton outlet
ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton bags
lebron 11
ray ban sunglasses discount
michael kors outlet clearance
toms outlet
polo ralph lauren
polp ralph lauren
cheap nfl jerseys
canada goose outlet
chenyingying2016815

raybanoutlet001 said...

cheap oakley sunglasses
adidas nmd runner
air max 90
sac longchamp
michael kors outlet
ed hardy clothing
michael kors handbags
ferragamo shoes
christian louboutin outlet
nike outlet store

roshini said...


Sage Support Phone Number
Sage Tech Support Phone Number
Sage Support Number
Sage Suport Technical Phone Number
Sage Support Tech Number
Sage Support Technical Phone Number
Sage Support Technical Number
Sage Customer Support Phone Number
Sage Customer Service Number

ankitasingh said...


Aol Technical Support Phone Number
Aol Technical Support Number
Aol Tech Support Number
Aol Tech Support phone Number
Aol Support Phone Number
Aol Tech Support Number
Outlook Technical Support Phone Number
Outlook Technical Supprt Number
Outlook Tech Support Number
Outlook Tech Support Phne Number
Outlook Support Phone Number
Outlook Tech Support Number

Anjilo Jilo said...

Quicken Technical Support Number
Quicken Technical Support Number
Quicken Support Number
Quicken Tech Support Number
Quicken Tech Support Phone Number
Quicken Support Phone Number
Customer Service Phone Number
Customer Service Number
Quicken Technical Support Phone Number

Quickbooks Support said...

Quickbooks Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Technical Support Phone Number
Sage Tech Support phone Number
Sage Technical Support phone Number
Quicken Tech Support Phone Number
Quicken Technical Support Phone Number

姚嘉 said...

air force 1 shoes
michael kors outlet
pittsburgh steelers jersey
nike free 5
nike blazer
tiffany and co
jaguars jersey
ray ban sunglasses
ed hardy
michael kors

Kanika Jaiswal said...


QuickBooks Technician
Quickbooks Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Number
Quickbooks Support Number
Quickbooks Technical Support Number
Quickbooks Tech Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Technical Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Customer Service Number
Quickbooks Customer Service Phone Number
Quickbooks Customer Support Number
Quickbooks Customer Support Phone Number
Quickbooks Help Desk Phone Number
Quickbooks Help Desk Number

Mohini Roy said...

Quicken Support Number
Quicken Support Phone Number
Quicken Tech Support Number
Quicken Support Number
Quicken Technical Support Number
Quicken Tech Support Phone Number
Quicken Customer Service Number
Quicken Customer Service Phone Number
Quicken Customer Support Number
Quicken Customer Support Phone Number
Quicken Help Desk Phone Number
Quicken Help Desk Number

Mohini Roy said...

Quicken Tech Support Number
Quicken Support Phone Number
Quicken Tech Support Number
Quicken Support Number
Quicken Technical Support Number
Quicken Tech Support Phone Number
Quicken Customer Service Number
Quicken Customer Service Phone Number
Quicken Customer Support Number
Quicken Customer Support Phone Number
Quicken Help Desk Phone Number
Quicken Help Desk Number

raybanoutlet001 said...

nba jerseys
michael kors handbags
jordan shoes
mont blanc pens outlet
chargers jerseys
ralph lauren outlet
skechers shoes
san francisco 49ers jerseys
jaguars jersey
michael kors

raybanoutlet001 said...

nike blazer pas cher
nike store
ugg outlet
longchamp outlet
michael kors outlet
ugg boots
cheap nike shoes
ed hardy uk
oakley sunglasses wholesale
coach handbags